Category Food

Obligatory Food Post Of The Week

Why, yes, I am a little obsessed with pho, thank you for noticing. And I do try to keep it under control — I limit myself to having pho once every couple of weeks so that I don’t get tired of it, and I try to eat it at different restaurants so I don’t get overdone on one place’s version (even though there is one I like head-and-shoulders above the others). Over the last couple of months, I’ve managed to inculcate my love of pho in Charlotte, so now she often accompanies me when I go out for a bowl. I’ve even had pretty good luck making it at home thanks to this crockpot recipe for broth at Steamy Kitchen. This morning I ran across this article in Smithsonian Magazine from noted food writer Mimi Sheraton about hunting for pho in the food stalls around the city of Hanoi. She also connected with a chef named Didier Corlou, a French chef who has lived and worked in Vietnam for nearly 20 years and has become the go-to guy to learn everything there is to know about pho and Vietnamese cuisine in general. Vietnamese cuisine is a unique fusion of traditional Asian cuisine and French influences, and even though pho is essentially the national dish of Vietnam, it is directly inherited from the French pot-au-feu. Just reading the article makes me want to break my self-imposed restriction and go have a bowl of pho for lunch today.

Noted British chef Rose Gray passed away a few days ago. Gray and Ruth Rogers were the chef-owners of London’s famed River Cafe, which spearheaded the revival of world-class restaurants in London in the 1980s. Americans will probably remember Gray and Rogers best from their beautifully-filmed food-porn cooking show that ran on PBS back in the 1990s; it was one of the first cooking shows to break away from the Julia Child-style 3-camera video format and feature drop-dead gorgeous photography of the food rather than the efforts of the cook. River Cafe became a spawning ground for many of the best-known chefs in Britain today, like Jamie Oliver. Rose Gray was 71.

I enjoyed this pair of posts on The Atlantic’s food “channel” from local chef Chris Parsons about competing in the Bocuse d’Or USA cooking competition. Cooking competitions are not just Food Network reality show fodder; the Bocuse d’Or competition has been around since 1987, and last year the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation was set up by some of the best chefs in the United States to encourage young American chefs to participate. Chris Parsons had toyed with the idea of competing for years before finally giving it a serious go last year. Parson’s own restaurant recently transformed itself from a fine-dine seafood place to a more casual “comfort food” theme (though he plans to re-open Catch somewhere in Boston or Cambridge at a later date).

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Invasion Of The Burger Snatchers

They’re building a Sonic Drive-In on Main Street in my town. It’s just the latest in a number of retail constructions on the main drag in the past couple of years; you’d have no idea the entire economy was in the crapper by the number of construction sites. Sadly for the property developers, though, once they get the sites built, they don’t always have tenants ready to move in, and so there’s a lot of brand-new-but-half-empty retail space waiting for the time way, waaay off in the future, when somebody might want to move in. But I digress a little…

The Sonic is being built right next door to the McDonald’s, which cannot have the McDonald’s franchisee too happy. Previously, the space housed a car dealer. When the car showroom building was torn down a couple of weeks ago, everybody was abuzz wondering what would take the space, but now that the frame of the building is up, so is the large banner on the front of the site. No doubt the cognoscenti of our little suburb knew exactly what was going on well in advance, but for us hoi polloi it came down to a six-foot strip of vinyl tied to a temporary fence to bring the news.

It’s kind of a big deal, not just because our town lags behind all of its neighbors in sheer density of fast food chains that aren’t Dunkin’ Donuts, but because it’s only the second Sonic location in the entire state of Massachusetts. Indeed, it is only the second Sonic in ALL SIX New England states. The first Sonic opened last summer to much attention from cherry-limeade-starved souls, who were willing to endure two-hour lines, valet parking, and unholy traffic congestion on a major thruway (the infamous Route One strip). Needless to say, there is much tut-tutting and clucking by the villagers, who are worried that the already-busy section of Main Street will turn into a parking lot from all the looky-loos who will descend on us like a plague of french-fry-devouring locusts.

Having grown up in Maine in the 1970s, I have been down this road before. When we first moved to Lewiston-Auburn in the summer of 1971, there was only one McDonald’s for a “metro” area of about 70,000, and it was way on the outskirts of Lewiston, close to the Maine Turnpike exit. It was a huge deal when, several years later, a second McDonald’s was built on the Auburn side of the river, and then equally big deals ensued when Burger King arrived a few years after that, and finally, when I was in high school, Wendy’s. Maine, however, is always late to the party for the expansion of national retail chains; there are still only a small handful of Starbucks in the whole state (our town in Massachusetts got its Starbucks two years ago, but they are numerous in the Boston area).

In a bit of serendipity, this infographic is making the rounds online. It shows the distribution of the major fast-food burger chains in the United States. Here’s the Fast Company article that brought the map to the attention of the Internet, and here’s the original blog post from a site called WeatherSealed.com. The Fast Company version changed the background color to make the McDonald’s locations (which were plotted in black against a black background in the original) stand out better. It’s interesting to see that McDonald’s base is so tightly concentrated in the Northeast, but even more interesting to see the predominance of other chains in other regions: Dairy Queen, which is a rarity here in the Northeast and operates almost exclusively in its form as an ice cream stand, OWNS the South Central region in a way that McDonald’s can only dream of.

For the sake of the franchisee, I hope the arrival of Sonic goes better than the arrival of Krispy Kreme donuts a few years ago. The anticipation behind the opening of the Krispy Kreme in Medford was nothing short of insane, and the initial customer response was enormous, but after about a year the whole thing died right off and the Kripsy Kreme chain itself went into bankruptcy. The retail location sat empty for a long time before finally being picked up by the beloved local chain of roast beef sandwich shops, Kelly’s. Meanwhile, the Ghost Town Plaza across the street sure could use half a dozen tenants.

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Tell ‘Em “Julia Sent Me”

The Boston Globe has an article today about an underground dining club in the area, one of apparently a handful operating. According to the story, the idea kicked off in Portland, OR a few years ago and has spread around among foodie communities everywhere. Indeed, on the Food Network cooking competition show “Chopped”, they’ve had at least one “underground chef” that I can recall, who was from New York (as most of the Chopped contestants are). The idea, if you don’t bother to read the link, is that people find their way through their personal networks onto an e-mail notification list that invites them to a location (usually in someone’s home) for a dinner party. The chef prepares dinner for the 15-20 invited guests, who are expected to show up with a bottle of wine and $50 as a “suggested donation”.

Back when I was cooking, this was an idea I was very much intrigued by, but I didn’t realize at the time that it was as well-established as it seems to be. For the person doing the cooking, whether they’re a professional chef doing little gigs on the side, or a serious amateur, it offers the cooking experience reduced to its best elemental nature of doing one’s best work without the repetitiveness of banging out the same five entrees forty-seven times a night. And for the amateur chef in particular, the “suggested donations” ease the burden of the expense of simply throwing a dinner party. The guests get the reward of being able to enjoy fine cooking without the overhead of inflated restaurant prices, and probably get better food than they would in all but the really top places. The “underground” element has some implications with regards to food safety and the burden of adequate health inspection, not to mention the obvious avoidance of the Tax Man, but, hey, it’s a recession, baby.

I have two questions after reading this article: 1. how many of these supper clubs are there in the area and 2. how do I get on a mailing list?

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Sometimes The Jokes Write Themselves

I got yer giant 7-pound wiener right here, baby.

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I Would Like Some BruSKETta With My Fuh, Please

The Chicago Tribune food section offers this helpful list of how to pronounce ten things whose names get a bit butchered in restaurants.

Pho, of course, is one of the ten. The thing about pho, however, is that even if you say “fuh”, you are still not quite pronouncing it correctly, because it has an intonation that the little diacriticals on the last letter give it: ở This is how it should be said (link goes to an embedded .ogg sound file, you may need to download a codec to get it to play on your computer). I suppose that’s only really necessary if you’re in Vietnam and need to get it right for the locals, but we are being persnickety here, after all.

Don’t even get me started on bruschetta, though. I cannot begin to tell you how many times I’ve had to hear a waitron call it “broo-shett-a”. I have even had a server actually correct me when I said “broo-SKET-ta”. Here’s the scoop, kiddies, they don’t use the letter “K” in Italian for the most part, instead they assign the “K” sound to the dipthong “CH” (and boy am I tickled to use the word “dipthong” in polite company). It’s the French who make “CH” sound like “SH”. So if you want to say it that way, make sure you ask for “brochettes”, not bruschetta.

Oh, and Giada would like to have a word with you about another Italian delicacy:

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Foodie News

Y’know, Domino’s Pizza is getting a lot of mileage out of the news that they redesigned their pizzas because so many people said they suck (even though this Salon article this morning says that the new sauce is “sweet as candy”). But maybe they didn’t go far enough. A guy named Matt Brown, who has been devising all sorts of ideas as part of a project he calls “Food And The Future Of It”, came up with a method of assembling a pizza crust that he calls “self-slicing pizza”


Instead of a crust made out of a single sheet of dough, his crust is made out of a series of overlapping “shingles” that can be torn off into whatever size serving the eater prefers. It’s a brilliant idea and I think it would be a smart way for pizza places to market large pies for groups.

The Economist’s offshoot magazine “Intelligent Life” features this online article wherein the writer and some friends attempted to choose the “Best Cheese In The World”. Hopeless task, to be sure, but in the undertaking they came to the conclusion that the U.K. is in the midst of a “Golden Age” of cheese, with dozens of excellent hand-crafted cheeses now being made in Britain. The article is full of recommendations, only one or two of which are non-British. If, like me, you enjoy having a cheese sampling evening once in a while, it’s probably worth seeing if you can hunt down any of the recommendations from your local cheesemonger.

Buncha geeks at MIT have put together this device that uses the concept behind 3D printing to make “printable food”. It’s sort of a prototypical version of the “food replicators” from Star Trek, which could seemingly create anything out of nothing just by the issuing of a command (“Tea, Earl Grey, hot!”). This Salon article from a couple of weeks ago is a little breathless about the idea of food printers replacing traditional food preparation, but it’s likely that it probably will find its way into the kitchens of “molecular gastronomy” maestros in one form or another. They already use food-grade printers to produce edible paper items at places like Alinea, so this would be the net logical step. Just don’t expect to be ordering your hot Earl Grey tea any time soon.

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Curses, Foiled Again!

This article in yesterday’s Boston Globe is an interesting case study in why some restaurant locations never seem to work out. The place is about to reopen as yet another restaurant after a parade of places that came and went with so much regularity you couldn’t be sure what would be there any time you drove by. The article doesn’t seem to address what I think is the central reason nothing lasts: it’s too far removed from the rest of Davis Square’s assortment of dining choices to attract a walk-in crowd. While the spot worked out well for the bakery cafe that was there for a long time, people walking around looking for lunch or dinner aren’t too likely to wander that far away from the action in the middle of the square. Until it becomes a destination in its own right, which the new chef-owner clearly believes it will, it’s likely to stay a revolving door.

Location doesn’t explain a couple of other similar revolving-door places I can think of in Arlington. Right in the center of the town, along with a cluster of very successful places, there are a couple of spots right on Massachusetts Ave that are as regular as clockwork with the changing of the management. In one particular case, it was actually successful for a while as an Indian place called Punjab; so successful that they moved to a bigger space a couple of doors down and sent their original space back into Cursed Cafe territory. So even a doomed spot can be turned into a success if the right thing happens — in the case of Punjab, there were too many Asian restaurants and no Indians ones, plus they benefitted from the coincidence of a regular program of Bollywood movies at the theater a block away, which brought lots of Indian visitors to the district.

I also find myself wondering what sort of inertia keeps lackluster places going year after year when better ones come and go. I suppose some places develop that vibe of being an institution in their particular geography, but usually those places have SOMETHING to recommend them. In the very same locations where the revolvers I’m talking about live, there are restaurants that seem to exist in some Bizarro world where no traffic equals longevity. Funny thing, the restaurant business.

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