Tag Bocuse d’Or

The Occasional Food Post

It’s not for nothing that political candidates call the endless parade of banquets and luncheons the “Rubber Chicken Circuit”. This article at The Economist’s “Intelligent Life” magazine looks at the disconnect between what people want from banquet food and what a hotel or restaurant can realistically manage to do for a large group and how some chefs are trying to up their game by getting away from rubber chicken a la king and trying cooking methods and cuisines that are better suited to the vagaries of serving several hundred people simultaneously.

Speaking of chicken…it should not be a surprise to anyone that Americans have an overwhelming preference for “white” meat (in other words, chicken breast), spurred partially by the machinations of the poultry producers and partially by our infantilized palates. But until they perfect the process for growing meat without growing the chicken, every bird has two legs as well as a breast. That’s a lot of meat left over, too much to even consider just throwing away, and so the poultry producers export all those chicken legs to other countries where people LOVE them. This Slate article says that the biggest importer of American chicken legs for years has been Russia, but the Russians are trying to boost their domestic poultry production and so are buying less and less from us. Given the state of the economy and the ecological disasters waiting for us on the horizon, Americans need to wise up, stop being fussy, and start eating dark meat. It tastes better anyway.

The USDA has an online interactive “Food Environment Atlas” that you can use to explore county-by-county census data as it relates to a variety of food and health concerns. A website called “Daily Yonder” used the atlas to generate this map of the U.S. showing the number of fast-food restaurants per capita and then some additional infographics for several related vectors: obesity, exercise, amounts of types of food eaten (soft drinks, vegetables, meat), and amount of per-person spending on fast food. There’s no sort of master index that pulls all of this together in that post, but taken as a group the maps do point out trends.

We occasionally enjoy watching the Travel Channel’s “Bizarre Foods” with Andrew Zimmern. I have to say that probably a good 75% of the stuff he eats actually looks just fine to me; not to harp on a point too much, but Americans as a group are appallingly infantile about their food preferences, and a lot of the things he samples are not so much gross as they are merely culturally unappealing because they’re unfamiliar. Once in a while you can tell that even Zimmern has to man up to eat a few things that clearly don’t taste good, but he never shirks from something just because it’s weird. Well, almost never. I think I’d pass on that, too.

In The Atlantic, local chef Chris Parsons writes about the 2011 Bocuse d’Or competition that was recently held in Lyon, France. You may recall that I blogged about his Bocuse d’Or posts last year, too. Parsons himself was a competitor in 2009.

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Obligatory Food Post Of The Week

Why, yes, I am a little obsessed with pho, thank you for noticing. And I do try to keep it under control — I limit myself to having pho once every couple of weeks so that I don’t get tired of it, and I try to eat it at different restaurants so I don’t get overdone on one place’s version (even though there is one I like head-and-shoulders above the others). Over the last couple of months, I’ve managed to inculcate my love of pho in Charlotte, so now she often accompanies me when I go out for a bowl. I’ve even had pretty good luck making it at home thanks to this crockpot recipe for broth at Steamy Kitchen. This morning I ran across this article in Smithsonian Magazine from noted food writer Mimi Sheraton about hunting for pho in the food stalls around the city of Hanoi. She also connected with a chef named Didier Corlou, a French chef who has lived and worked in Vietnam for nearly 20 years and has become the go-to guy to learn everything there is to know about pho and Vietnamese cuisine in general. Vietnamese cuisine is a unique fusion of traditional Asian cuisine and French influences, and even though pho is essentially the national dish of Vietnam, it is directly inherited from the French pot-au-feu. Just reading the article makes me want to break my self-imposed restriction and go have a bowl of pho for lunch today.

Noted British chef Rose Gray passed away a few days ago. Gray and Ruth Rogers were the chef-owners of London’s famed River Cafe, which spearheaded the revival of world-class restaurants in London in the 1980s. Americans will probably remember Gray and Rogers best from their beautifully-filmed food-porn cooking show that ran on PBS back in the 1990s; it was one of the first cooking shows to break away from the Julia Child-style 3-camera video format and feature drop-dead gorgeous photography of the food rather than the efforts of the cook. River Cafe became a spawning ground for many of the best-known chefs in Britain today, like Jamie Oliver. Rose Gray was 71.

I enjoyed this pair of posts on The Atlantic’s food “channel” from local chef Chris Parsons about competing in the Bocuse d’Or USA cooking competition. Cooking competitions are not just Food Network reality show fodder; the Bocuse d’Or competition has been around since 1987, and last year the Bocuse d’Or USA Foundation was set up by some of the best chefs in the United States to encourage young American chefs to participate. Chris Parsons had toyed with the idea of competing for years before finally giving it a serious go last year. Parson’s own restaurant recently transformed itself from a fine-dine seafood place to a more casual “comfort food” theme (though he plans to re-open Catch somewhere in Boston or Cambridge at a later date).

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