Tag celebrity chefs

Linkapalooza 2/23/09 – Food

(Ed. note: I’ll start including dates on these “linkapalooza”-style posts, because it makes it hard to find a specific one)


I guess there’s a bit of a Mario Battali backlash brewing among the foodies. Doug at BarfBlog has this rather unflattering post which is mostly directed at the thoughtlessness of R.E.M. frontman Michael Stipe, but manages to throw in a couple of good slams at Mario, too. And Slashfood tattles on Mario’s molto vulgaro behavior in front of the King and Queen of Spain (cue Moxy Früvous here). Serious Eats failed to chime in, but that’s probably because Mario’s a contributor there, and you don’t want to aggravate your celebrity buddies.


The New York Times reports that the brand management people at PepsiCo-owned Tropicana have decided to give up on the recent redesign of their packaging and go back to the older graphics due to lots of complaints from customers. Well, maybe not LOTS of customers, but some very loyal and (I presume) loud ones, anyway. Mutual Friend of Torrez, David Wertheimer may or may not have been one of those loud and loyal few, but he sums up the problem with the new packaging pretty accurately: the old cartons made it very easy to tell which sub-variety of Tropicana juice you were buying, but the new packaging makes it next to impossible, and that pisses off anyone who has to waste time searching for it in the grocery store.
I wish the people who redesigned the labeling for Pepsi itself would take a lesson from this. The redesign of the labels on the assorted Pepsi soda products sucks ass. The logo has been parodied all over the Internet for looking like everything from a fat guy to someone’s ass crack, and the typeface used for the actual content labels is unreadable. Not long ago, I bought what I thought was a 12-pack of Diet Pepsi, only to get home and find that I had bought caffeine-free Diet Pepsi because the words “caffeine-free” can’t be read on the package, and because they changed the label’s color from the industry-default “brown means decaf” to white. Bastiges! At the same time, I have also read that Pepsi plans to bring out a temporary promotion with “throwback” versions of regular Pepsi and Mountain Dew made with real cane sugar instead of HFCS, and I notice in that article that they also plan to use the older logos (in the case of Pepsi, a very old logo). Pepsi did very well with its “Pepsi Raw” promotion in international markets last year, and despite those stupid pro-HFCS ads all over television, there is a lot of well-founded opposition to the over-prevalence of HFCS.
Oh, and while the attention has been focused on PepsiCo, the Coca-Cola Company somewhat quietly announced that they will drop the word “Classic” from their Coke packaging. Considering that the reason they put it there in the first place, namely the ill-fated New Coke, died almost 20 years ago, I’d say they’re a little slow on the uptake.


Häagen-Dazs is trying to make a play for the “simple foods” crowd by marketing several flavors of ice cream under a label called “Five”, meant to stand for there only being five ingredients in those blends: milk, cream, sugar, egg, and whatever flavoring the ice cream has, That’s all you really need for any ice cream, but you’d be extremely hard pressed to find any national brand of ice cream that doesn’t contain things like carrageenan or guar gum to “enhance mouthfeel” and assorted other food additives to prolong shelf-life and retard ice crystal formation. But wait, you say…I remember those commercials for Breyers Ice Cream where they specifically said they didn’t have any of those other things. Well, yes you do, grasshopper, and so do I, but those commercials are from the distant past. You see, in 1993 Breyers was bought up by the conglomerate Unilever, and while they left things alone for a while, eventually their greedy little desires got the better of them and they started adding a substance called “tara gum” , and then finally gave up pretending and moved on to using guar (check the ingredients of, say, plain vanilla). But…but…but what about Ben & Jerry’s? Surely those aging hippies would NEVER use additives! Mais non, mon cher, Unilever also owns Ben & Jerry’s nowadays (though they keep Ben around for appearances’ sake) and that wholesome Vermont hippie shtick is just so much horsehockey. Now, for the big bucks, guess who owns Häagen-Dazs…I think you can see where this is going.


There is no food more uninspiring than the commercially-grown supermarket-grade tomato. All but flavorless, with a texture somewhere between gelatinous and rubbery, they are picked green, refrigerated for weeks, and sprayed with ethylene gas to turn red even though they are nowhere close to ripe. All in the name of looking perfect on a grocery store display. But as bland and blah as they are, the industry that produces them engages in the modern-day equivalent of legalized slavery to get them to market. This eye-opening story in the latest Gourmet magazine explains that 90% of the tomatoes sold in the U.S. during the winter months come from Immokalee, Florida and that practically all of the growers there systematically intimidate, abuse, and hold against their will tens of thousands of legal and illegal immigrant farm workers. A local action group called the Coalition of Immokalee Workers is making slow headway against the abuses of the growers but is still trying to convince the Republican governor of Florida, Charlie Crist, to take enforceable legal action (fat chance).
I have enough links for another Food Linkapalooza post later in the week, so stay tuned for more!

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Food Link Dump

Here’s a bunch of food-related links that aren’t necessarily inter-related, but I wanted to share them with you:

Former “America’s Next Top Supermodel” contestant Elyse Sewell went to South Korea lately and tried a dish that contained dog meat (a common ingredient in several Asian cuisines). Guess what? It tasted like dog. (via)

There is a growing realization that despite the sensible opposition to genetically-modified food, we may have no choice but to make use of it anyway to combat the problems with food productivity in developing countries because we’ve fucked up the ecosystem so badly. Monsanto, the corporation most involved in designing and marketing GM crops and the targeted pesticides and fertilizers that go along with them, clearly recognized the inevitability of this a long time ago, which is why they have no compunction about strong-arming American farmers.

A couple of weeks ago, Laura Shapiro wrote this piece for Slate taking celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay and his ilk to task for being out of touch with the reality of the situation faced by most home cooks in America: what he says should be a quick-fix dinner is a huge task for the home cook who gets home at 5:30 and needs to have dinner on the table at 6:00. Celebrity chef cookbooks, she complains, all expect you to have a traditional butcher on hand, ready access to expensive and hard-to-find ingredients, a full batterie de cuisine, and the skills of…well, Gordon Ramsay. She’s not wrong in a number of ways. Celebrity chef cookbooks in particular are the most guilty of engaging in food pornography and outsized expectations, and even Ramsay himself admits that he doesn’t cook for his family at home. She correctly observes that the genre of “quick meal” cookbooks (which the Ramsay book claims to be but surely is not) offer solutions that only work if you do such revolutionary things as plan ahead, shop in bulk, and learn how to fucking cook (Sorry, I’m channeling Gordon a bit myself). And that’s where I lose sympathy. Anyone who really thinks they can whip up a celeb-chef-quality meal in 30 minutes without any advance effort or expertise will also believe that they can lose weight without dieting and exercise, can make a fortune in real estate with only $10, or can have a penis bigger than the Eiffel Tower with just one little pill. 3QuarksDaily blogger Abbas Raza agrees with Shapiro, but takes his own tack: he’s all about taking the time to enjoy being in the kitchen when he cooks. Professionals need to learn how to be as efficient and multitasking as possible, amateurs do not. How can you enjoy eating the meal if you don’t enjoy making it?

If you haven’t read this New York Times article about how the increasing cost of fuel is being reflected in the price of food due to the sometimes bizarre transportation involved, please do. As I have said before, locavorianism might sound like just more fooodie snobbishness right now, but within a few years it’s going to become the way of life for most people, just as it was for centuries.

Harper’s Magazine has this great story about the foodie craze for raw milk and how some dairy farmers have created large and elaborate bootlegging operations to deliver the product to consumers while evading the efforts of the FBI. Some people claim that raw milk helps restore necessary bacteria in our intestines that fight off the increasing number of food allergies being diagnosed, helps reduce the number of unwanted hormones and steroids we ingest from milk produced by large commerical dairies, and that it’s just plain better tasting. This is an informative and well-researched article — don’t be surprised to see it pop up as a book down the road.

My friend Jo pointed me to this company’s webpage, which features beater blades with rubber scraper edges. They have one to fit just about every major model of stand mixer, and this definitely qualifies as a “Why didn’t they think of that before?” item.

Lastly, you probably read that Mars is buying Wrigley’s Gum. I would make a joke here about Uranus and the Hershey Highway, but I’ll let you figure out something on your own.

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Don’t Bite The Hand That Feeds You

New York Times food columnist and cookbook author Mark Bittman has joined the world of food blogging.  I don’t know why someone with a regular column in the NYT needs a blog, too, but these days everybody in the professional media world has to have one whether they really want to or not.

Bittman has been writng at the Times for a decade, but has only crossed over into the realm of Celebrity Chefs in the last couple of years, mainly based upon the success of his cookbook “How To Cook Everything”.  Now he’s got a TV show on PBS based on that book and is rapidly being transformed into a brand name like every other Celebrity Chef.  On the plus side, he’s more chef than celebrity, unlike some people I could name, although he’s not a professional chef either.  This was, in fact, his initial shtick in his column, called “The Minimalist”, that he could come up with great food without having to rely on the chef’s bag of culinary tricks to do it.  Now, his “minimalist” approach is all trendy and what-have-you all on its own.

It was probably inevitable that the wider realm of dedicated home cooks would give up on trying to pull off “molecular gastronomy” or sous-vide cooking, or preparing fugu and retrench back into territory that can be handled by the proficient home chef without backsliding all the way to “semi-homemade” dishes.  Bittman borrows from the simple-but-elegant cuisine that Jacques Pepin advocates, and makes it a bit more accessible to an audience that might be a little intimidated by Pepin’s pedigree.

His food blog, he says, will feature a recipe a day from his column, and today, for example, he offers a recipe for a basic vinaigrette salad dressing.  I don’t know if many serious foodies will pay a lot of attention if the recipes stay that basic, but he’ll probably draw a crowd anyway.  Most of the food bloggers I follow are plowing the fertile fields of French country cuisine or some other traditional, but certainly not minimalist, vein.

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