Tag cheese

The Occasional Food Post

Our friend Chef Jo found this blog post rebutting several of the accusations in that Australian news story about “meat glue” that I posted a couple of weeks ago. I’m not entirely sold on his counter-argument that nobody is using it to rip off diners just because he couldn’t find proof on the Internet, but I am willing to entertain the idea that the news show behind the story may have been exaggerating for effect, since that’s par for the course with TV journalism. And even this guy, who is a Big Deal molecular gastronomy dude, has to admit there are some issues with using the product in terms of bacteria. Given the viral video effect, it will be interesting to see how long it takes for local TV reporters in the U.S. to pick up on this and start doing their own stories, and what, if any, actual incidents turn up.

I have always preferred serving pork at medium doneness — a little on the pink side — so that the meat is still tender and juicy, not the dry, white, fibrous nasty shit you get when it is cooked all the way done. But Americans have been indoctrinated to think that pork MUST be overcooked due to concerns over disease (namely, trichinosis), and it can be damn near impossible to change people’s minds about that. Never mind the fact that there have basically been NO documented cases of trichinosis due to undercooked pork in this country for DECADES, due largely to the industrialization of pig farming. It’s sort of the culinary equivalent of being afraid that you will fall off the edge of the earth if you sail too far away from shore. Now, at long last, the USDA has abandoned this outdated notion and has changed their recommendations for cooking pork, saying an internal temp of 145° (with a 3-minute hold time) is safe for consumption. Here’s the official announcement and guidelines, if you’re interested.

I am excited that my town is finally getting a farmers’ market this summer. Not that it’s hard to find farmers’ markets around the area, it’s just nice to know that there will be one within walking distance of my house. Like a lot of farmers’ markets these days, the lineup of vendors has branched out to include meat and seafood, baked goods, coffee beans, and other products that aren’t strictly “farm” items, but sic transit gloria mundi as they say. This Atlantic Monthly post talks about a recent study, sponsored by the Northeast Organic Farming Association of Vermont, that dispels the notion that it’s more expensive to buy food from farmers’ markets than supermarkets. The researcher found that organic produce in particular was significantly less expensive at farmers’ markets (but, then, note who paid for the research…). I’ll try to remember to post a follow-up to this item once the market gets going and I’ve had a chance to suss it out.

This Slate article by British food writer Fuchsia Dunlop (only in England are children actually named “Fuchsia”) looks at the aversion to cheese in China. Chinese cuisine is largely devoid of dairy products, so the consumption of cheese is a recent affectation borrowed from the West and among the general population cheese is actually reviled. But, as Dunlop writes, it’s not because the Chinese don’t appreciate pungent-smelling food, as she details the extremely popular dish chou doufou (fermented tofu).

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Cheese Or Font?

It’s an eternal question: is it cheese or is it a font?

Not even our leading expert can be sure:

It’s up to you to decide. Protip: don’t eat the Caslon bold.

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Feed Me

Britain has always taken a back seat to other countries, especially France and Italy, when it come to cheese, but did you know that there are 700 varieties of cheese made in the U.K.? Only 14 of them rise to the level of AOC-style designation, but it’s not unusual for artisanal cheeses to be as good or better than traditional styles. This BBC article talks about the growing public appreciation for cheese in the U.K. and the resulting explosion of cheese-making throughout the country.

Speaking of British traditions…for centuries, British sailors were issued a daily tot of rum as part of their rations. The rum was typically added to water and called “grog”, since the water wasn’t particularly palatable. Crews would even mutiny if their grog was withheld. The Royal Navy continued this tradition until 1970, if you can believe that, and the final issue of rum was ceremonially served to RN sailors as “The Black Tot”. The last of that specific stock of rum is now being sold, having been kept in storage all these years (just in case, I guess…you never know when they might need a flagon or two), at the rather steep price of £599 for a pint…although you do get a nifty replica of the copper cup used on ships to measure out the rations.

On our vacation to Cape Cod earlier in the summer, we took Charlotte to her first-ever drive-in movie at the Wellfleet Drive-In. There are so few working drive-in movie theaters left that we figured it might be a once-in-a-lifetime thing for her. I was tickled that when the screen finally lit up one of the very first things they showed was a real 1950s ad for the concession stand just like the one in the YouTube clip above. This recent Serious Eats post has a handful of some of the better known ones, and if you go to the webpage for that YouTube clip, you will notice a slew of similar nostalgic bits of drive-in ephemera. Sadly, the actual concession stand food was still just as shitty and overpriced as it ever was, but at least she can say she got to have the experience.

This is called the “Toast-E/R”, and it lets you make your breakfast a little more exciting by pretending that you are defibrillating your bread into toasty deliciousness. It’s a project from designer Shay Carmon, so don’t rush on over to Target to try and buy one just yet, but don’t you just want it like RIGHT NOW?

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Foodie News

Y’know, Domino’s Pizza is getting a lot of mileage out of the news that they redesigned their pizzas because so many people said they suck (even though this Salon article this morning says that the new sauce is “sweet as candy”). But maybe they didn’t go far enough. A guy named Matt Brown, who has been devising all sorts of ideas as part of a project he calls “Food And The Future Of It”, came up with a method of assembling a pizza crust that he calls “self-slicing pizza”


Instead of a crust made out of a single sheet of dough, his crust is made out of a series of overlapping “shingles” that can be torn off into whatever size serving the eater prefers. It’s a brilliant idea and I think it would be a smart way for pizza places to market large pies for groups.

The Economist’s offshoot magazine “Intelligent Life” features this online article wherein the writer and some friends attempted to choose the “Best Cheese In The World”. Hopeless task, to be sure, but in the undertaking they came to the conclusion that the U.K. is in the midst of a “Golden Age” of cheese, with dozens of excellent hand-crafted cheeses now being made in Britain. The article is full of recommendations, only one or two of which are non-British. If, like me, you enjoy having a cheese sampling evening once in a while, it’s probably worth seeing if you can hunt down any of the recommendations from your local cheesemonger.

Buncha geeks at MIT have put together this device that uses the concept behind 3D printing to make “printable food”. It’s sort of a prototypical version of the “food replicators” from Star Trek, which could seemingly create anything out of nothing just by the issuing of a command (“Tea, Earl Grey, hot!”). This Salon article from a couple of weeks ago is a little breathless about the idea of food printers replacing traditional food preparation, but it’s likely that it probably will find its way into the kitchens of “molecular gastronomy” maestros in one form or another. They already use food-grade printers to produce edible paper items at places like Alinea, so this would be the net logical step. Just don’t expect to be ordering your hot Earl Grey tea any time soon.

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For The Foodie Who Has Everything

Still hoping for that last-minute inspiration for a Christmas gift for your favorite foodie who already owns every single kitchen gadget in the world? (And you know who you are…)

Instructables.com comes to the rescue yet again with step-by-step instructions for building a homemade cheese press that also doubles as a cider press (via MAKEblog).

Depending on how handy your home chef is, you can simply print out the instructions and give them a pile of lumber to build it themselves, or you still have plenty of time between now and Christmas morning to put it together yourself. I have no idea how you’ll wrap it and get it under the tree, but if you’re handy enough to build a cheese press, you can probably figure that out, too.

Sure, your house will stink like curdled milk and/or rotting apples for the rest of your life, but on the plus side think of all the delicious cheese and cider you’ll have!

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Linkapalooza – Food

I think I’ve settled on “Linkapalooza” as a generic name for these posts. Today, it’s food links.

  • Somewhere recently I read a post on some food blog about how to properly store cheese (though I didn’t save the link), and it kept talking about using “cheese paper” to wrap the leftovers. I had never heard of “cheese paper”, but apparently they knew what they were talking about because this morning bookofjoe had a link to this site, which sells it. Cheese paper, it turns out, is basically wax paper with a gas-permeable film on the inside that lets the cheese breathe, extending its shelf life better than plastic wrap or even conventional wax paper. Zabar’s sells it for less than Formaticum does, but there’s no indication if Zabar’s sells it in the same quantity/size, so I don’t know if it’s a better deal or not. Here’s a link to a cheese blog (hey, why not?) with some alternate storing suggestions. If any of you have personal experience using real cheese paper, do tell.
  • My friend Jo pointed me to a blog about food safety (charmingly, if aptly, named BarfBlog), which in turn pointed to this USA Today article about the latest on the tomato salmonella panic. Turns out more than 10% 4% of the cases tied to this particular outbreak are people who all ate at the same fast food outlet. Big surprise there…NOT. Both the BarfBlog guy and the USA Today article point out that due to the rural nature of the population where the first outbreak was found, investigators had to do a lot of pavement-pounding and personal interviews to find out the sort of things they want to know, like where people had been eating out, so it took longer than it might in an urban area to dig up the necessary clues. And what exactly causes these salmonella outbreaks, you ask? Well, the migrant farm workers who pick the tomatoes are very often not given bathroom breaks or adequate sanitation facilities, and so they shit in the field, don’t wash afterwards, and go right back to picking tomatoes (or whatever).
  • A couple of weeks ago I ran across this Village Voice article about an “anti-energy” drink called “Drank”. Energy drinks are the new killer category in the beverage business, and it seems like there’s a new one every other day. I’ve only tried a couple of them, but have found those to be nasty tasting, horrible things, but the appeal to the youngsters is to mix them with alcohol and get the dual effect of being buzzed from caffeine and hammered from booze at the same time. Well, at least they’re not mainlining heroin, so that’s something, I guess. Anyway, while energy drinks are loaded with such bizarre ingredients as guarana (a highly-caffeinated seed) and taurine (which apparently has no energy-giving properties at all but is in Red Bull, so all the energy drinks *have* to have it), this “Drank” beverage has melatonin, valerian root, and rose hips, all of which are traditional sleep-inducing or relaxation-inducing substances. The marketing tag for “Drank” is “slow your roll”, and it sounds like this would do just that. In the process of chasing links for “Drank”, I learned that it takes its name from a homemade intoxicant that is made with codeine-based cough syrup and is popular among the Houston, TX hip-hop scene (which, not surprisingly, is where the soft drink is primarily sold). I guess if they can sell an energy drink called “Cocaine”, why not one called “Drank”.
  • One of the highlights of our trip to Montral last weekend was having lunch at the famed Schwartz’s Deli on Rue St. Laurent. The deli is about as tightly packed a space as any you might encounter: there is a line of tables along one wall, each of which seats five or six people, there’s also a service counter with stools, and a take-out area, all of which leaves not quite enough room for the waiters to squeeze down the middle with the plates. Plus, there is usually a line out the door and down the block, and the place is never empty. While we were waiting for our lunch on Sunday, I read a couple of newspaper articles from 2004 that were posted on the wall. Apparently at that time the owners were considering opening a second location in a different part of downtown Montreal, but ultimately rejected the idea, much to the disappointment of many Montrealers. Now there’s news that they are going to acquire the empty storefront next door to them and expand the original store. (via) That’s probably a better plan anyway, and I will definitely look forward to having a little more elbow room the next time I visit.
  • This Mother Jones article talks about how market speculators are already swooping in for a big score by buying up food commodity futures and waiting for the inevitable global food shortage to set in hard. Caiptalism destroys everything, my friends, and cares not a whit for the consequences. Who cares if millions of people starve, as long as somebody made a buck on it. Fuckers.

CORRECTION: I’ve corrected the figure of the number of people who caught salmonella from one particular fast food chain. I misremembered the figure, but have since found the NYT citation. Thanks for the heads-up, Shelley! — BK

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Blessed Are The Cheesemakers

The Boston Globe has a feature story today about the latest fad in yuppie early retirement: cheesemaking.

I guess if you can’t retire to Napa or Sonoma to make wine, the next best thing is to retire to Vermont and make cheese. Maybe by the time I reach retirement age, there’ll be a vogue for owning cracker factories, hopefully in someplace with a better climate.

What’s amusing to me is the “driven to excellence” mentality that these yuppie cheesemakers can’t let go of, even as they are supposedly trying to get “back to a simpler life”. These people aren’t trying to blend into the New England landscape like so many merino sheep, they’re poseurs and wannabes. And, as I suspect they’ll learn the hard way, the market for artisanal cheese remains microscopic compared to other yuppie midlife fantasy businesses like wine. The article says that there are now more than 85 artisanal cheesemakers in New England (almost a quarter of the 400 artisanal cheesmakers nationwide), but you can count the high-end cheese shops on the fingers of your hands.

So maybe there’s the REAL opportunity, opening cheese shops rather than making cheese itself. Seems to me that there’s some magical ratio of cheesemakers to cheesemongers that has yet to be achieved. And personally, I would much rather spend my days sampling new cheeses with peckish Walpolling types than having my arms in vats of hot sour milk all day.

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Say “Pasteurized Processed Cheese Food!”

American Cheese

If you’re a cheese lover like me, you are well aware that for the last couple of years, the FDA has required all imported cheeses sold in the U.S. to be made from pasteurized milk, even if they have been made for centuries using raw milk to no ill effect. It’s had an impact on the quality of imported cheese that is made by large industrial concerns abroad (which means it has also affected cheese quality in Europe as well). Of course, the real high-end cheesemongers like Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge and Murray’s in New York, still manage to obtain and sell unpasteurized raw-milk cheeses, openly flaunting the restriction, but if you are accustomed to buying cheese from just about anyone else, you have not had The Real Thing in a while.

Domestically-made cheese has always been subject to the pasteurization rules. That’s not to say you can’t buy artisanal raw-milk cheese made in this country, but any cheese product sold across state lines has to be pasteurized. By and large, this hasn’t been a huge issue for the American consumer, because Americans don’t like “real” cheese. Americans have been acculturated to like bland cheeses, and cheeses that had their origins in stronger-flavored varieties have been engineered to have less flavor.

Via growabrain, here’s an article from American Heritage Magazine which explains how J. L. Kraft basically invented the market for cheese in the United States by convincing Americans that second-grade cheese, cheese blends, and “cheese-like food” were worth eating.

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Viking Viagra

Via Serious Eats comes this story from The Norway Post about an aged cheese produced in Norway since Viking times called gamalost.

Gamalost is a hard cheese made from soured skimmed cows milk. As it ages, it ferments and turns brown. You can see some photos of it being made on a farm in Oregon here, and you can learn the lyrics to the “Gamalost Song” here.

Gamalost is only produced commercially in the town of Tine in Norway, which is also the home of the much more familiar Jarlsberg. Not surprisingly, it’s not sold outside of Norway — even among Norwegians it’s not really all that popular.

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Save Camembert!

earl%20camembert.jpg

Yesterday the New York Times had this story about French cheesemaker François Durand and his crusade to prevent the large commercial manufacturers of Camembert from coercing the French government to change the AOC certification for that cheese to allow the use of treated milk.

The cheese maunfacturers would like the certification to allow either raw OR treated milk so that they do not have to sacrifice their designation. Durand argues that this will result in a near-total loss of traditional Camembert, and threatens all raw-milk-based cheese production in France.

The move on the part of the commercial manufacturers is in part based on American restrictions on importation of non-pasteurized cheese products, as well as pressure from French supermarkets to promote “safe” food products. But, given the food culture in France, the opposition is strong and taken seriously by the government. So, for the moment, the battle rages on and, unlike the American chocolate manufacturer’s attempt to permit oil in place of dairy, not a guaranteed win for the industrial giants.

Comments:
Blasphemers!
Posted by shelley [URL] on 06/21/07

Ah, yes, another plot by the crunchy French bastard himself, the Count du Monnaie. Being marketed to based on fear. Where will it end?
Posted by Tony [URL] on 06/22/07

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