Tag eggs

A Hard-Boiled Eggman

The national story about salmonella being found in millions and millions of eggs never quite got the widespread attention it probably deserved, since the entire country was too busy fighting over the “Ground Zero Mosque”, but it’s not quite gone yet. Last week the Boston Globe ran a story that, frankly, I had been expecting to see long ago in the development of the entire crisis, linking Maine egg-and-poultry producer Jack DeCoster to the egg farms in Iowa where the outbreaks occurred. Anybody who lives or grew up in my little corner of Central Maine knows about DeCoster and his always-less-than-aboveboard business practices (detailed at length in this post at The Atlantic.com), and when the salmonella scare first broke my own immediate expectation was that it would involve his operations. The Globe story tries to explain the tangled web of business connections that have been used to thoroughly obfuscate the exact nature and extent of the involvement, but sometimes all you need is the whiff of sulphur to know there’s a rotten egg.

This Serious Eats post talks about the food safety bill that is presently lingering in the Senate thanks to the Just-Say-No Party, and an addendum from Senator Kirsten Gillibrand (D-NY) that would push the onus of product recall onto food retailers, that is in direct response to this salmonella outbreak

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Six Minute Egg

6min-egg

Update to yesterday’s post about boiled eggs:

The picture at the top is what I got by boiling two eggs in 180-degree-ish water for 6 minutes. Sorry for the so-so photo, I only had my cell phone handy.

The eggs were indeed nicely done. The cooked ring of egg white was consistent in its thickness around the egg, with the texture ranging from firm along the outermost edge to barely set toward the center. The yolk was warm and cooked just enough to maintain its shape. That is indeed EXACTLY how I like a soft-boiled egg (pardon me, Shelley, soft-cooked egg).

But it wasn’t easy finding the sweet spot on my stove burner control to get the water to the right temperature and KEEP it there. Setting the stove directly on “Medium” got the water to 120 degrees. The next mark up took it to 160. One more mark and it shot right past 180 to 200. I ended up letting it go to 200, putting the eggs in the saucepan, and then removing the pan from the heat entirely. The combination of heat loss from adding the cold eggs to the water and moving the pan off the hot burner didn’t seem to over-cool the water. It’s also a pain in the butt to stand there holding a thermometer as close to the center of the water as possible while waiting for the desired temperature. Somebody should really make a set of cookware with built-in temperature sensors; how hard could that be?

So, like Messrs. Savage and Hyneman say, “Myth Confirmed”, but given all the fiddling around I had to do, and given that my totally non-scientific method produces almost the exact same result, I don’t think I would bother making my soft-cooked eggs this way. Chef Jo or anyone else who needs the assuredness of having the exact same result every single time probably should standardize on this method, but it’s not worth the bother for making a little brekkie.

I’ll probably try the hard-cooked recipe some other time. I rarely use hard-boiled eggs and don’t eat them plain, so it will have to wait for some occasion when I’m in need. If any of you regular visitors try it, do let me know.

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Go Boil An Egg

softboiled

This Serious Eats post by J. Kenji-Lopez Alt could well be the DEFINITIVE article on how to properly boil an egg. He’s got all the Alton Brown/Harold McGee food science for you, as well as directions to achieve perfect boiled-ness, both soft and hard (he’s a former Cook’s Illustrated guy, and it shows in his article).

boiledeggs

This picture, from the linked post, shows a selection of eggs boiled from 1 to 15 minutes in 2-minute increments. From my own experience with boiling eggs and from this handy guide, I can tell you that my personal preference for boiled eggs is between the 3-minute and 5-minute examples. He says that a 6-minute egg is the “perfect” soft-boiled egg, but in his experiments he actually monitored the temperature of the water (180 degrees Fahrenheit, which is a very low simmer), whereas I am usually nowhere near so exacting — I just bring the water to a boil and put the eggs in — so I am probably waaay over 180, and thus get to my set point faster. But now I am motivated to try it his way.

His discussion on hard-boiled eggs seems to make it a bit more complicated than my experience tells me it is, trying to account for variables such as the temperature of your tap water and the thickness of your pan, but in the end his method is put the egg in cold water, bring the water to a simmer, and let the egg sit for 10 minutes. I have always used the technique of bringing the water to a boil and then adding the egg for 12 minutes, with pretty consistent results I have to say, but, again, I think I will give his method a try.

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