Tag food waste

Linkapalooza 03-25-09: Food

chiles

Years ago, I got a reputation at work for being a lover of hot and spicy food. It was somewhat falsely deserved, however. I do indeed enjoy a dish with a little kick to it once in a while, and I am not one to pass up a dish because it is spicy, but I’m not one of those people who feels compelled to slather everything I eat with hot sauce or to engage in competitive throat-burning by always trying to go “one hotter”. That way madness lies. Anyway, you might very well wonder how chile peppers came to grow in such a wide range of concentrations of capsaicin, the chemical that makes peppers hot. This article in the latest Smithsonian Magazine goes with a University of Washington biologist to the wilds of Bolivia, which is the origin point for all the peppers we know today, to look for environmental/evolutionary explanations for capsaicin concentration and comes up with an answer that hadn’t been considered before: capsaicin is a fungicide, and peppers that grow in moister conditions develop more capsaicin to retard molds and other fungi.

The BBC reports that the champagne maker Perrier-Jouet recently held a special event to uncork one of the world’s oldest extant bottle of champagne. The champagne was bottled in 1825, and was one of three bottles remaining from that vintage. To the surprise and delight of the wine tasters on hand, it was still drinkable, if no longer all that bubbly. The remarks of the tasters in the BBC story are tactful and well-considered, to be sure, though I’m not too sure about the ones who professed that the ancient wine was better than a modern bottle. The guests also sampled champagnes from the 1840s and 1870s at the same event.

News From Home — Jonathan Bloom, who writes the Wasted Food blog, reports that he visited St. Joseph’s College in Standish, ME yesterday to observe the college’s effort to reduce food waste in their cafeteria by going trayless. The idea is that if students don’t have trays that they can pile up with lots of food, they will take less and thus waste less by not leaving food uneaten. The program has been in use since 2007, and it sounds like the on-campus students have come to accept it, if not openly embrace it. (Note: I taught as an adjunct at St. Joseph’s College about 15 years ago.) Americans in particular have a very long way to go in terms of recognizing how much food we waste, and a social engineering method like this is relatively painless and effective.

In a similar vein of learning to rethink our food habits, more and more people are beginning to take interest in CSA’s (“Community Supported Agriculture”). Not all of us have a green thumb like Michelle Obama, and many urban dwellers don’t have anyplace to grown their own veggies, so the idea of a CSA is that you pay a share to some folks who ARE working a vegetable garden, and in return they give you some of the produce they harvest. It’s a good system, but, as people who have been on the receiving end will tell you, sometimes you get too much of one thing, or not enough of something else, or you might end up with veggies you don’t normally eat. At Slate today, food write Catherine Price talks about learning how to deal with getting 30 pound of turnips in your CSA box or what to do with kale.

That’s just one of the several “locavorian dilemmas” one might have to learn to face. Another is food safety. Doug Powell, who writes the evocatively-named BarfBlog, points out that there is a tendency to associate locally-grown food with greater food safety, but that in reality locally-produced food products may even pose greater risks of contamination for the very reason we prize them: because they’re fresher and more likely not to contain preservatives, the chance of spoilage either from age or improper storage is greater. Locality is not a guarantee of safety.

While we’re talking about paying attention to what you put in your mouth, did you see this Boston Globe story a few weeks ago about how commercially-produced orange juice is made? It’s an interview with author Alissa Hamilton, who has just published a book called “Squeezed: What You Don’t Know About Orange Juice”, which may do to the orange juice business what “Fast Food Nation” did to McDonald’s. It certainly does make commercial orange juice (yes, even the “pure premium” stuff) sound like just one more crud-laden, over-processed, junk item you can live without.

pepsi-natural

And that brings me to the last link for this post: trying to cash in on the success of Pepsi “Raw” in Europe, Pepsi is planning to roll out three varieties of Pepsi sweetened with good old fashioned cane sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup. They’re going to call it “Pepsi Natural” here in the U.S.. It’s supposedly available right now in selected markets (Boston is not one of them, unfortunately) and is not intended to be a “limited-edition” product like some of the flavored varieties but instead a permanent addition to the product line. I suppose that means those of us who don’t live in the test markets will have to wait six months or so. It’s also worth noting that this product is NOT the same as the “Kosher-for-Passover” version of Pepsi, due to some of the other ingredients.

This is clearly the thin edge of the wedge in the coming backlash against HFCS. I’m sure you’ve seen the insulting “HFCS is good for you” commercials that have been running since last fall that suggest that just because you’re too stupid to remember why high-fructose corn syrup is bad for you, it must be perfectly OKAY. Cadbury-Schweppes, which owns Snapple, has also announced that they are replacing HFCS in their products with cane/beet sugar. But, as this activist website points out, it’s necessary to keep in mind that too much sugar is just as bad for you as too much HFCS, just in different ways.

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Linkapalooza – Food

  • Much buzz about Michael Pollan’s latest piece in the New York Times. It’s done in the form of an open letter to the next President of the United States (whichever candidate it might be) to bring to his attention the importance and likelihood of a food crisis that will face the entire world, including America.

    But with a suddenness that has taken us all by surprise, the era of cheap and abundant food appears to be drawing to a close. What this means is that you, like so many other leaders through history, will find yourself confronting the fact — so easy to overlook these past few years — that the health of a nation’s food system is a critical issue of national security. Food is about to demand your attention.

    While the article is putatively aimed at the President-Elect-To-Be, what he describes is something we all need to pay attention to.

  • Since this summer I have been following Wasted Food, a blog about…well, wasted food. In light of what Michael Pollan is saying, paying attention to how our society wastes food so trivially and looking for ways to reduce that waste (personally AND institutionally) is critical. Here’s a post from July about one common example: wasting food at conferences, business meetings, and other events. Another one of the pet causes of the blog’s author, Jonathan Bloom, is getting rid of trays in cafeterias. Studies show that people take more food when they can carry it on a tray, and are subsequently more likely to waste some of it. Today, he links to an article at Slate about getting too much produce from a CSA and suggests solutions like donating the produce to a local food bank (if they’ll take perishables), or, if the oversupply is a regular problem, splitting the subscription with someone else. This is a neat blog to follow for a perspective on something we often don’t even think about.
  • Several years ago, Massachusetts finally put an end to allowing the sale of non-pasteurized fresh apple cider. It was an unfortunate decision, in my opinion, because it meant that we could no longer buy fresh cider and let it ferment a little to get “hard”. The fizzy tang of some real hard cider was a wonderful autumn treat. Commercial hard cider is nothing like the stuff you get from an apple farm. The rationale, of course, was food safety, but there wasn’t any real evidence to show that people were getting sick from unpasteurized cider. It’s rather like the federal regulations against raw-milk cheese — it may be “for your own good”, but it ruins something special and relatively harmless in the process.

    The obvious solution, thus, is to make your own hard cider from apples you press yourself. I remember going to an apple farm in New Hampshire many years ago with our friends Tony and Sharon and squeezing our own cider from an old-fashioned apple press (which we then brought home and let ferment), but that was messy and labor-intensive. This Instructables.com article tells you how to make hard cider using homebrew equipment and champagne yeast. It’s still a slightly different beast from the natural fermentation, since you do actually pasteurize the apple juice before adding the yeast, but results in something a bit more potent than what you can buy at the store.

  • Last week I took Starbucks to task for their blah “piadini” breakfast sandwich, but apparently they are going like gangbusters with their new “Perfect Oatmeal”. I haven’t tried it myself, yet, but apparently what you get is just a packet of instant oatmeal, a cup of hot water, and a packet of dried fruits and nuts to stir in. I guess the novelty factor for a generation of people who never got hot cereal at home is a part of the success, because that doesn’t sound all that special to me. I can make instant oatmeal at home and doctor it up just as easily. If their next “amazing” new breakfast idea is those little boxes of Kellogg cereal that you can pour the milk right into, I’m giving up.
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Today’s Link Dump: Food

For centuries, the pigs of the Perigord region of Southwestern France have been used by the farmers to root out the highly-prized black truffles that bear the region’s name. Perigord truffles are among the most expensive foodstuffs in the world and are doled out in translucent slices or very finely grated on top of outrageously-priced entrees in the hoity-toitiest restaurants in the world. Now, the BBC reports, an invasive species of truffles from China has spread into the fields of neighboring Italy and may overtake the local species. The Chinese black truffle is rather tasteless compared to the Perigord truffle, but has been used to help stimulate truffle growth due to falling truffle production because it can interbreed with the Perigord species (Tuber melanosporum), and is even sometime passed off by unscrupulous traders as being real Perigord truffles. Tuber melanosporum black truffles are also grown in this country in Virginia and in the Pacific Northwest, but cannot be called “Perigord” due to EU regulations.

Remember how last month people were freaking out about not being able to buy 20-pound bags of rice at Costco and how the media were whipping us all into a frenzy about food shortages? Remember how the price of rice had gone up almost 150% in the last year? Sure you do! Well, guess what…turns out that the government of Japan has been sitting on an enormous stockpile of rice at the behest of the United States government, but now they’re going to release it to the open market and crash the price of rice. Turns out that Japan is REQUIRED to buy and stockpile a certain amount of American-produced rice every year by the World Trade Organization, and most of that rice rots in the warehouse while people in developing countries starve, all in the name of keeping prices higher for American rice growers. Now that the price of rice has gone up so high that it’s causing political instability, complaints have finally compelled Japan and the U.S. to stop the hoarding. Record wheat and rice crops have been projected for this year, which was already beginning to drive down prices, but the availability of the stockpiled rice will cause immediate easing in the demand.

Speaking of rotting food, yesterday’s New York Times ran this feature article about one of the most serious problems this country faces with regard to its food supply: waste. As a whole, we waste between a quarter and a third of all the food we buy — roughly one pound of food per person per day. And that figure is from a study conducted eleven years ago. I don’t even get to be all morally superior on this one, friends; we waste an appalling amount of food in our house. After reading this story, I am determined to see where Bridget, Charlotte and I can make the changes that would decrease our waste. If you’re interested, the blogger highlighted in the NYT piece is writing a book and, for the moment, trying to deal with the deluge of visitors as a result of the Times story AND a link from BoingBoing. I’m going to follow his RSS feed for a bit to see what he has to say.

This post at The Atlantic Monthly’s “Current” blog by Graeme Wood offers a precis of a new book called, plainly enough, “The Hamburger”, by Joel Ozersky. It’s a cultural history and sociological review of the quintessential American food product (even though it, like the hot dog, was really invented in Europe). I point out to my loyal readership that this is just the sort of book I would *love* to receive as a birthday present (August 27).

Ditto that for this book: The Warmest Room In The House: How The Kitchen Became The Heart Of The Twentieth-Century American Home, by Steven Gdula. Here’s an interview with Gdula in The Atlantic from February 2008. The book looks at the sweep of food’s history in the culture of the last century, as viewed through the prism of our obsession with our kitchens. Just last week, for example, I had to go see the nurse practitioner who prescribes a medication for me, and we spent the entire visit talking about her kitchen renovation; she peppered me (no pun intended) with questions about my kitchen, since she knows that I’m a part-time chef.

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