Tag industrial food production

The Occasional Food Post – June 29, 2011

Just a quick one this week:

Lapham’s Quarterly features this map which traces the paths taken by three now-ubiquitous, but once rare, foods as they were “discovered” and spread by European explorers in the 16th Century: tomatoes, coffee beans, and black pepper. Here’s the full-sized image, where you can actually read the blurbs. Actually, in the case of black pepper, traders have bought and sold it since Roman times, if not earlier, but it was a rare and expensive spice up until the modern era. There’s also some interesting factoids about ketchup; apparently it was invented by the Chinese, but did not include tomatoes until some colonial New Englanders devised their own recipe about 100 years later.

Well, heaven forbid I miss out on this item going around: a New York Times blog post about the origin of the embossed design on Oreo cookies has been popping up on all my reads lately. Apparently the current design only dates back to the 1950s; the original design from 1912 is much plainer. That post inspired this post on The Atlantic’s food blog, which extends the idea to consider possible hidden meanings and mystical symbology in Oreos and other embossed cookies and crackers, and even gives a little “How It’s Made” lesson in the process used to make embossed cookies. Even showbiz blogger Mark Evanier weighed in on the Oreo posts and included his personal story about the Oreo-Hydrox rivalry. Now the latest twist is this link to an artist who lives in Somerville, MA and makes highly-detailed cameo portraits using Oreo cookie halves and the creme filling. Since NEXT year is the 100th anniversary of the Oreo cookie, I am wondering what PR flack from Nabisco got this ball rolling a year ahead of time and why.

These next two links speak volumes: This Mother Jones article (via MetaFilter) details a years-long struggle between processed-meat manufacturer Hormel and workers in the factory in Iowa where the company makes Spam. The workers claim that unsafe production processes exposed them to aerosolized pig brains which caused their bodies to develop an autoimmune disease that has left many of them crippled for life. The vivid descriptions of the carcass-processing floor are as evocative and unpalatable as “The Jungle”.

At the other end of the spectrum, our friend Chef Jo delights in telling us about a farm in Groton, MA that produces hand-raised, grass-fed beef and REAL free-range chickens. If you are in the Greater Boston area, here’s their schedule of farmer’s markets if you don’t want to drive all the way to Groton.

And I’ll leave you with a couple of infographics to help you in the kitchen:

This one illustrates the differences between the assorted knife cuts called for in preparing vegetables

And this one should help you understand the degrees of doneness when cooking steak:

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The Occasional Food Post: June 17, 2011

In the wake of the release of this year’s report on pesticide use in fruit and vegetable farming, The Atlantic’s food blog featured a list of the “dirtiest” and “cleanest” types of produce based on the amount of pesticides used on those crops. As usual, apples remain the most pesticide-laden item in the supermarket, while the least-pesticide-laden items include onions, sweet corn, watermelons, and cabbage.

You can bet this doesn’t get Alton Brown’s vote of approval: Plow & Hearth’s corn kerneler ($12.95) removes all the kernels from an ear of corn in one go. Me, I use my big-ass chef’s knife.

Back in 2009, I posted about a story in Gourmet Magazine abouth the plight of migrant farm workers indentured to the tomato farms in Immokalee, Florida and the efforts of a group called the Coalition of Immokalee Workers to unionize the labor and improve the working conditions. Earlier this week, NY Times food columnist Mark Bittman posted an article about the ups and downs of that movement and about Barry Estabrook’s new book “Tomatoland”, which documents how industrialized agriculture has ruined tomatoes and created this modern slavery for farm workers.

Speaking of Gourmet Magazine, Smithsonian Magazine’s food blogger Lisa Bramen decided that she wanted to make a special birthday dinner for her husband using recipes from the year that he was born, 1978 (the year I turned 15, BTW). She searched through some of Gourmet’s recipes from that year and came up with a menu of Chicken Veronique, curried rice, a garden salad, and grasshopper pie. She sounds a little disappointed that the menu didn’t include family dinner fare like Sloppy Joes and tacos, but that’s why they called it “Gourmet”, chica. If she wanted to make the sort of crap we really ate in the 1970s, she should have gone through the back issues of Good Housekeeping. Still, it’s kind of a cute idea, even if it is a little too close to “Julie and Julia” territory. A back issue of Gourmet from August, 1963 is only $4.59 on Amazon.

You probably know that McDonald’s restaurants in countries other than the U.S. often developed special menu items to cater to the tastes and/or dietary restrictions of those countries. India has been a particular challenge, given that Mickey D’s speciality is beef burgers and Hindus don’t eat beef, but they have developed a whole menu for the India market. The paneer-based “McCurry Pan” you see in the image above is now being replaced with a sandwich made with a paneer patty (called the “McSpicy Paneer”, of course), which is being hailed as a triumph in development and production in the global marketplace according to this Business Today article.

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Crikey!

Via bookofjoe, here’s a longish TV news report from Australia about a rather unsettling product euphemistically called “meat glue” that is used extensively in the food service industries in both Australia and the U.S. to take remnants and trimmings of beef, pork, or chicken, and fuse them together into products that are sold to the public as “filet” or “chicken breast”. It’s banned in the EU, and apparently the Australian news crew had a hard time finding anybody in the food industry in that country who was willing to talk about it on camera.

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The Occasional Food Post

If It’s Not Scots, It’s CRAP!! — Scottish food importer Great Scot International recently announced plans to begin selling haggis-flavored potato chips here in the U.S. The chips are made by a British ice cream maker looking to expand into the snack category by launching a handful of “Scottish flavors” including Scotch Bonnet Chili Pepper (hmm…), and Aberdeen Angus (beef flavor). Apparently it’s the number one selling potato chip in Scotland, but that was to be expected in the first place.

Erich Vieth at Dangerous Intersection recently pointed to this TED Talk video featuring Dutch agricultural specialist Marcel Dicke, who explains why Westerners should learn to eat more insects as a source of protein. The ultimate reason is a no brainer:

The main reason that we should eat insects is that “we will have to.”

Okay, but if they come in haggis flavor, I might have to think twice about it.

Serious Eats editor and chef J. Kenji Lopez-Alt offered a counter-argument to the widespread belief that the production of foie gras is cruel with this piece about a tour he took of one of the three farms in the U.S. that produce foie gras. It’s generated a lot of controversy as both sides of the debate have used it as a touchstone for their arguments; I thought MetaFilter’s thread about the piece did a very good job of highlighting the arguments, as well as both the strengths and weaknesses of Lopez-Alt’s article.

As a sidebar to that, just to give you a sense of the inherent cruelty in all industrialized meat processing, and to highlight how wrong things can go, please read this Atlantic.com food blog post about reported animal abuse at Smithfield Foods pork processing facilities.

Looking backward for a moment, John Ptak dug up an old advert for Lea & Perrin’s Worcestershire Sauce that inspired him to consider the evolution of the humble hamburger in the pantheon of American cuisine. The ad, which he dates to 1956, comes from a time, he says, when the hamburger was not yet quite the icon of food that it would become, but even now it holds on to its origins as inexpensive, everyday fare.

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Friday Food Post

Here’s a little blast from the Food Porn Reality Squad. Dunkin Donuts introduced their new Pancake-Sausage Bites this week, and this is the food porn version of said product, followed by an actual photo of them:

The Slashfood reviewer said they actually taste pretty good, but that is some NASTY looking shit, my friends. Personally, I don’t like my breakfast foods to resemble disembodied goat testicles, no matter HOW much maple flavor they have.

And while we’re on the subject of nasty, behold the Thanksgiving Turkey Cake, made from turkey, stuffing, and sweet potatoes with a “frosting” of mashed potatoes and topped with marshmallows:

Does this remind anybody else of that episode of “Friends” where Rachel makes trifle using a recipe for shepherd’s pie? And do NOT even talk to me about “The Cherpumple”.

Shifting gears a bit, Slashfood has a post today with the attention-grabbing fear-inducing headline “Are Raw-Milk Cheeses Safe?” Well, duh. Of course they are. People have been eating raw milk cheeses for CENTURIES. And, thankfully, the writer does eventually get around to acknowledging that. The problem isn’t the raw milk, the problem is unsafe production. Half-assed regulation on the part of the FDA, along with cost-cutting bean-counting is the problem, not the cheese. In fact, the post even points out that pasteurized cheeses are more likely to have Listeria growing in them than the raw versions of the same products. Just say NO to industrial cheese!

Factoid: every human being accounts for approximately two tons of carbon dioxide being released into the atmosphere annually based on their daily consumption of food. That total represents every aspect of not just consumption but also the production and transportation of food. The Spanish researchers who conducted that study say that the amount of CO2 involved in the food chain represents 20% of the annual per capita carbon dioxide tally per person in Spain.

Dueling lists: Six Biggest Food Myths vs Top Five Groceries You Buy And Then Throw Out

Crunchy frog, it’s not just candy anymore!

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Digesting

Links from the world of food:

Recently, I had a post about some recent articles linking picky eating to OCD and even autism, so this Daily Beast article caught my eye: veganism may also be a manifestation of eating disorders. A 2009 study of young adults ages 15-23 showed that those who said they had adopted “vegetarian” diets were also more likely to have engaged in binge/purge behaviors and use of laxatives or other “diet pills” for weight loss. The article also says that adopting a vegan or vegetarian diet is a recommended tactic for hiding an eating disorder promoted on “pro-ana” websites. The article is careful not to say that all vegans have eating disorders, it’s that people with eating disorders often turn to vegetarian or vegan diets as extreme weight loss mechanisms.

On the opposite end of things…this article from Twin Cities.com informs us about a Vietnamese restaurant in St. Paul, MN that has begun offering its diners a pho eating challenge: consume a bowl of pho that contains TEN POUNDS of rice noodles, along with the usual assorted slices of beef within 45 minutes to win a t-shirt proclaiming you to be “The Pho King”. The writer tried the challenge and couldn’t get anywhere close. He got a “Pho King Loser” t-shirt for his trouble. I loves me some pho, but I know I couldn’t slurp down ten pounds of rice noodles even if I had all day. But I would give it a go just for the “Pho King Loser” t-shirt. Sounds to me like the owners of the restaurant are deliberately angling to get “Man Vs. Food” to come pay them a visit.

This post at The Atlantic’s food blog by contributor Sarah Eltman makes me sad. She writes about going back to Barcelona after many years, expecting to enjoy a foodie holiday visiting all the local eateries and sampling authentic dishes made with local ingredients, only to find that the globalization of industrialized food means that the ingredients used in those places now are the same over-processed crap we eat at home. I’ve wanted to go to Barcelona for years, but maybe I’ll just go to Taco Bell instead.

And on a more practical note, this Serious Eats post tells us how to make our own crème fraîche at home. I was a little surprised to realize that I did not already know how to do this, because I’ve long known how to make yogurt and make a substitute for buttermilk, but there you have it. Indeed, all you need to do to make crème fraîche is to add a tablespoon or two of plain yogurt or buttermilk to a pint of heavy cream and let it sit for 12-24 hours, unrefrigerated. Just make sure none of the dairy involved is ultra-pasteurized because that kills the necessary bacteria. It gets harder and harder to find dairy that isn’t ultra-pasteurized these days, but if you’re lucky your grocery store still sells a local dairy’s products that aren’t. Once you get the tang and consistency you want, refrigerate your finished product and it will keep for 7-10 days.

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Taste The Rainbow

True/Slant blogger Nadia Arumugam recently had this fascinating look inside the business of food colorings. Colorings aren’t just limited to the unnatural realm of candy and soda, they are used extensively across the entire processed food industry and are even used with “fresh” foods to maintain our unrealistic expectations of product quality. Hint: your orange isn’t really orange without a big ol’ spray of food coloring.

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Don’t Eat That!

flesh salad

There are plenty of gross things that you probably wouldn’t eat in the first place, but this website has a list of seven things that you probably eat all the time that some scientists would never consider putting in their mouths for one reason or another: additives, unsanitary production methods, chemical leaching from packaging, etc. You probably won’t be too surprised at the things that made the list, although one of them took me a little by surprise. Also, a couple of them are so ubiquitous in our commoditized food supply that there’s no real alternative except to stop eating those things altogether.

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Feeding Frenzy

So have you gone out and stocked up on your 50-pound sacks of rice for the coming Rice Panic of 2008?

Why am I not surprised that the newsmedia are deliberately touting up this story to sound about a thousand times worse than it is? I will also not be surprised when, by this time next week, there really is a full-on panic about buying rice because too many morons half-understood a badly reported and overblown story.

Which is not to say that there isn’t a growing and incredibly serious problem with the food supply around the world, and that the early warning signs are coming from availability of staple grains. This story from The Economist turns a cold eye to the situation: the price of wheat rose 86% last year on the heels of a poor harvest globally, and the price of rice has risen 141% so far this year (and we’re only in Q2!). But the problem right now is not supply, it’s demand. The supply problem is still waiting for us a bit further down the road and has the potential to make things much much worse.

At Spiked, the British left-libertarian political magazine, editor Rob Lyons writes fairly harshly about a new report by a group of international relief agencies that recommends the increase in the number of small agricultural producers using non-industrial farming methods. The need for increased farm production over the next couple of decades is pretty much a given at this point, but his argument, echoed to some extent in the Economist piece, is that expecting small farmers to make up the difference in food production without resorting to industrial methods (GM crops, use of fertilizers, etc.) is too pollyanna-ish given the potential catastrophic situations we may face. Also, both articles recognize a reality that is going to be very hard to swallow for American and European politicians — reducing or eliminating farm subsidies in order to let the new realities of the market assert themselves. Without this sort of corrective move, small agricultural production in the poor nations, where the food will be needed the most, will continue to be undercut if not completely abandoned, only exacerbating the global problem.

As I pointed out recently, food shortages and resulting rioting ARE a reality in poorer countries right now and are only likely to grow worse. Costco limiting purchases of bags of rice 20 pounds and up is not likely to cause any sort of genuine shortage or any real need for panic buying in this country; anything that happens here will be fueled by stupidity and scare-mongering (both of which, sad to say, are very strong influences in our society). But we are not immune from the effects of the global food crisis. Mark Winne, a former food bank program director, has written a book about the “food gap” between the rich and poor in the United States, and recently wrote a post for the publisher’s blog, Beacon Broadside, that summarizes his main points about the increasing disparities. Mounting economic pressures on already-overextended families will manifest themselves in this “food gap”, and the threshhold that determines who is economically overextended will be pushed quite a bit higher to include people who today might still think of themselves as middle class.

As so often happens, I wonder how much could be done to offset these impending disasters with the $3 trillion we have wasted in Iraq, but I suppose that’s a question for another day.

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Recommended Viewing

If your local PBS station carries the excellent documentary film program “Independent Lens”, be sure to watch the film “King Corn”, which begins airing nationally this week. Here in the Boston area, it will be on Channel 44 at 3:00 a.m. on Thursday (don’t complain, that’s what TiVo is for) and again on Sunday, April 27 at 9:30 p.m.

Starting with the premise of two friends who plant an acre of corn, the film traces the path of corn crops in America from the farm through the entire economy and the enormous impact that corn has on our entire way of life: its effects on our health from the widespread use of HFCS, its effects on our environment as the basis for most ethanol production, its effect on our economy through farm subsidies, and more. Just as Eric Schlosser’s book “Fast Food Nation” woke up millions of people several years ago to the huge impact the fast food industry has, so does this film do the same for corn.

The airing of this film comes at a critical time as food shortages are beginning to have a serious impact on the lives of millions upon millions of people all over the world. The government of Haiti was overthrown over the weekend due to increasing public turmoil over the unavailability of basic food supplies. Last year, food riots in Mexico resulted over the steep increase in the price of tortillas due to corn crops being diverted to the production of ethanol to sell in the United States. Increased grain prices are blamed for recent rioting in Yemen. All told, rioting related to food shortages has occurred in 37 countries in the last twelve months, and in many cases the diversion of crops to the production of biofuels is one of the underlying causes.

Are we really going to starve the world so we can keep sucking down gallons of soda while we drive around in our SUVs? Looks like it.

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