Tag locavorianism

Stop Kidding Yourself

Here’s a pair of articles that I came across independently of each other but share the same theme of smashing some cherished liberal shibboleths (don’t you just love that word?) in favor of thinking about adopting a more realistic and ultimately more thoughtful approach to the issues involved.

First, there’s this July article from Forbes magazine by author James E. McWilliams in which he argues that “locavorianism” is rather misplaced in some of its intent by not adequately taking into account an accurate calculation of the “carbon footprint” involved in the production and transportation of food products. The case can be made, as he makes it with the example of lamb produced in New Zealand, that it’s possible for a food product produced half-way across the globe to be not only more economical, but more environmentally friendly than a similar locally-produced item.

This second Forbes piece from a few weeks later is an interview with McWilliams, who has recently published a book entitled Just Food: Where Locavores Get it Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly that fleshes out this critique and makes several more about some of the assumptions of locavorianism. As you might imagine, his criticisms have won him very few friends among the proponents of locavorianism, and, as the Forbes interview points out, some of his arguments that favor efforts from agribusinesses like Monsanto and ADM have caused critics to accuse hm of being a shill for those corporations. Here’s a review of his book from a “green design” website called Inhabitat that is actually quite positive about his critiques, which seem to be more about finding a way to real change than the trendy faux change embraced by so many foodies.

Which is a good segue to the next article, from the July/August issue of Orion Magazine, entitled “Forget Shorter Showers”, by activist and author Derrick Jensen. Jensen gets right to the heart of it by decrying the popular slogan “Think Globally, Act Locally” — engaging in your silly feel-goodism bits of trendy “Look at me, I’m saving the Earth by taking shorter showers” activities is tantamount to doing nothing at all. Adding up all the little things people do with the intent of “saving the planet” still does not come close to the real change that could be effected by bringing it to the corporations and the government (in particular, the military), whose deleterious effects on the environment and on human populations vastly outweigh the small-potatoes of consumer impact.

The counter-argument to Jensen’s charge has traditionally been “you can’t fight the power, so I’m doing what I can at my own level”, but his counter-counter-argument is that if we all stopped wasting time recycling cardboard and cutting up six-pack rings to save the dolphins, we could indeed have far more political power than we are currently willing to assume. He argues, very correctly I think, that Americans in particular have been so thoroughly brainwashed by corporate propaganda that not only do we assume we are powerless, we actively deny the ultimate responsibility of industry and government for the root causes of the problems. The list of feel-good bullshit activism is a mile long, but an inch deep in terms of really addressing the problems. Consider the hazy and vaguely inspiring rhetoric about “change” that helped to launch Barack Obama into the White House and the subsequent flurry of do-nothing activities his administration has engaged in while essentially handing over the keys to the financial industry, the insurance industry, and the defense industry, and I think you can see what Jensen is getting at. His answer: cut out the nonsense and let’s get busy with the bigger picture. We are more powerful than we know.

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Food Link Dump

Here’s a bunch of food-related links that aren’t necessarily inter-related, but I wanted to share them with you:

Former “America’s Next Top Supermodel” contestant Elyse Sewell went to South Korea lately and tried a dish that contained dog meat (a common ingredient in several Asian cuisines). Guess what? It tasted like dog. (via)

There is a growing realization that despite the sensible opposition to genetically-modified food, we may have no choice but to make use of it anyway to combat the problems with food productivity in developing countries because we’ve fucked up the ecosystem so badly. Monsanto, the corporation most involved in designing and marketing GM crops and the targeted pesticides and fertilizers that go along with them, clearly recognized the inevitability of this a long time ago, which is why they have no compunction about strong-arming American farmers.

A couple of weeks ago, Laura Shapiro wrote this piece for Slate taking celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay and his ilk to task for being out of touch with the reality of the situation faced by most home cooks in America: what he says should be a quick-fix dinner is a huge task for the home cook who gets home at 5:30 and needs to have dinner on the table at 6:00. Celebrity chef cookbooks, she complains, all expect you to have a traditional butcher on hand, ready access to expensive and hard-to-find ingredients, a full batterie de cuisine, and the skills of…well, Gordon Ramsay. She’s not wrong in a number of ways. Celebrity chef cookbooks in particular are the most guilty of engaging in food pornography and outsized expectations, and even Ramsay himself admits that he doesn’t cook for his family at home. She correctly observes that the genre of “quick meal” cookbooks (which the Ramsay book claims to be but surely is not) offer solutions that only work if you do such revolutionary things as plan ahead, shop in bulk, and learn how to fucking cook (Sorry, I’m channeling Gordon a bit myself). And that’s where I lose sympathy. Anyone who really thinks they can whip up a celeb-chef-quality meal in 30 minutes without any advance effort or expertise will also believe that they can lose weight without dieting and exercise, can make a fortune in real estate with only $10, or can have a penis bigger than the Eiffel Tower with just one little pill. 3QuarksDaily blogger Abbas Raza agrees with Shapiro, but takes his own tack: he’s all about taking the time to enjoy being in the kitchen when he cooks. Professionals need to learn how to be as efficient and multitasking as possible, amateurs do not. How can you enjoy eating the meal if you don’t enjoy making it?

If you haven’t read this New York Times article about how the increasing cost of fuel is being reflected in the price of food due to the sometimes bizarre transportation involved, please do. As I have said before, locavorianism might sound like just more fooodie snobbishness right now, but within a few years it’s going to become the way of life for most people, just as it was for centuries.

Harper’s Magazine has this great story about the foodie craze for raw milk and how some dairy farmers have created large and elaborate bootlegging operations to deliver the product to consumers while evading the efforts of the FBI. Some people claim that raw milk helps restore necessary bacteria in our intestines that fight off the increasing number of food allergies being diagnosed, helps reduce the number of unwanted hormones and steroids we ingest from milk produced by large commerical dairies, and that it’s just plain better tasting. This is an informative and well-researched article — don’t be surprised to see it pop up as a book down the road.

My friend Jo pointed me to this company’s webpage, which features beater blades with rubber scraper edges. They have one to fit just about every major model of stand mixer, and this definitely qualifies as a “Why didn’t they think of that before?” item.

Lastly, you probably read that Mars is buying Wrigley’s Gum. I would make a joke here about Uranus and the Hershey Highway, but I’ll let you figure out something on your own.

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Tomatoes In January

Yes, you can buy tomatoes in the supermarket in January, or any other month of the year, but what you get isn’t much of a tomato. That’s because it comes from who-knows-where, having been picked while green and hard as a rock, then sprayed with ethylene gas to make it turn red in color, even though it’s nowhere near ripe. Then it’s shipped half-way around the world to food wholesalers, who sell the produce to your supermarkets, having first sold all the better-quality stuff to high-end greengrocers and restaurants.

That’s all going to come to an end within the next twenty years or so, as Al Gore’s inconvenient truths come home to roost. The spectacle of the supermarket produce section will simply evaporate as it becomes prohibitively expensive to manage perishable foods the way we have for the last 60-75 years or so. We’ll be back to buying tomatoes only in season, in vastly reduced quantities, and probably only from very local sources. Which, quite honestly, is not entirely a bad thing when you think about it. The unfortunate part is that those of us who have learned to enjoy fresh foods that simply can’t be produced in a given geography will have to unlearn those tastes or else secure significant fortunes to be able to buy them.

Of course, most of us already have access to farm stands and other local growers, and anyone who knows better already takes advantage of those opportunities to enjoy locally-grown fresh foods. As we are forced to shift back to relying on those providers, though, they won’t be entirely able to meet the demand. Nor is everyone likely to chuck their jobs and go back to being farmers themselves. So this is a good time to be finding a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program near you. CSAs range in scope from community gardens to whole farms and produce all sorts of food, keeping some for personal use and selling some in the marketplace. Many urban dwellers in the Boston area already take advantage of CSAs to get fresh local produce, but the time has come for public awareness about CSAs to grown exponentially and for people to begin thinking about where their food is going to come from a few years down the line. The Local Harvest website linked previously has this locator page that can help you find a CSA in your area. Many CSAs are already popular and you sometimes have to sign up well before spring if you want to be able to get the produce, so this is a good time to have a look if you’re at all interested.

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Locavorian, Or Else

The hot term among foodies this year is “locavore”, an idea promoted by well-known chef Alice Waters to encourage people to eat whole foods grown locally (in a perfect world, within 100 miles of where you live) in favor of processed foods or foods grown and shipped in from far away.

Partly, locavorianism is a reaction to the much more common trend among foodies to obsess over exotic foods, always looking for the rarest or most unusual item to consume. It’s also a response to the growing concern over the environmental cost of mass agriculture: why eat a tomato grown in Chile, which has to be flown to a plant in the U.S., then shipped to supermarkets via trucks, when you can eat a tomato grown by a local farmer or even one you grow yourself? There is also the cultural dimension of trying to recreate a more conscious link between the consumer and the producer: food does not come from the supermarket, it comes from farms (and factories). Lastly, there’s also some element of the “Slow Food” movement as well, hoping to preserve and promote traditional methods of producing food products like cheese, or traditional items like heirloom tomatoes.

It’s a noble effort, and I appreciate that it represents a swing away from the trend-whoring that has come to be seen as “being a foodie”. My own take on it is that while it might be a slightly idealistic and overly heroic idea today, within the next decade or so, as our environmental apocalypse descends upon us, locavorianism won’t just be a nice idea, it will reassert itself as the primary model for how we survive.

This Washington Post piece from a few weeks ago reviews a pair of books that follow in the same vein as Michael Pollan’s now-landmark “The Omnivore’s Dilemma”, explaining both the immense infrastructure that provides food to America’s supermarket industry and the social disconnect people have with food created by all those perfect rows of shiny-but-flavorless Red Delicious apples and perfect cuts of meat wrapped in styrofoam and plastic.

This article from The Economist paints a very bleak picture in a report called “The End Of Cheap Food”. The urbanization of people in China and India is already having a profound effect on the demand for commodity food products and will only increase over the next decades, even as agribusiness repurposes some of its products away from use as food to other, more profitable products (namely ethanol). This piece barely even takes into account the impending environmental issues, it does a good job of pointing out how unstable things are from strictly an politico-economic consideration.

The British magazine Prospect ran a piece last month advocating wider adoption of genetically-modified crops as a way to boost production to meet increased global demand. The author of the article, Dick Taverne, pooh-poohs the strong criticism against GM crops (particularly in Europe) as potential vectors for undesirable and unimagined consequences, but the greater likelihood is that smaller, sustainable agriculture predicated on traditional crops will, of necessity, be the better programmatic approach.

Web guru and all-around-smart guy Seth Godin points out a pitfall in encouraging locavorianism now: it’s the old “eat your spinach, it’s good for you” pitch that generations of mothers have used. Being too strident about this at a point where the need isn’t acute might serve the unintended effect of turning people off to an idea they really need to embrace. Particularly in this country, you guarantee a knee-jerk response in the opposite direction if you hammer your point too earnestly. The success of changing attitudes about processed foods has come from the “bubble-up” method through books like Pollan’s and “Fast Food Nation”. It’s easy enough to get a bunch of politically-conscious socially-activist people in places like San Francisco, New York and Cambridge to get on board, but this idea has to be sold to the people in Iowa, South Carolina, and New Hampshire, just like Barack Obama.

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