Tag USDA

The Occasional Food Post

Our friend Chef Jo found this blog post rebutting several of the accusations in that Australian news story about “meat glue” that I posted a couple of weeks ago. I’m not entirely sold on his counter-argument that nobody is using it to rip off diners just because he couldn’t find proof on the Internet, but I am willing to entertain the idea that the news show behind the story may have been exaggerating for effect, since that’s par for the course with TV journalism. And even this guy, who is a Big Deal molecular gastronomy dude, has to admit there are some issues with using the product in terms of bacteria. Given the viral video effect, it will be interesting to see how long it takes for local TV reporters in the U.S. to pick up on this and start doing their own stories, and what, if any, actual incidents turn up.

I have always preferred serving pork at medium doneness — a little on the pink side — so that the meat is still tender and juicy, not the dry, white, fibrous nasty shit you get when it is cooked all the way done. But Americans have been indoctrinated to think that pork MUST be overcooked due to concerns over disease (namely, trichinosis), and it can be damn near impossible to change people’s minds about that. Never mind the fact that there have basically been NO documented cases of trichinosis due to undercooked pork in this country for DECADES, due largely to the industrialization of pig farming. It’s sort of the culinary equivalent of being afraid that you will fall off the edge of the earth if you sail too far away from shore. Now, at long last, the USDA has abandoned this outdated notion and has changed their recommendations for cooking pork, saying an internal temp of 145° (with a 3-minute hold time) is safe for consumption. Here’s the official announcement and guidelines, if you’re interested.

I am excited that my town is finally getting a farmers’ market this summer. Not that it’s hard to find farmers’ markets around the area, it’s just nice to know that there will be one within walking distance of my house. Like a lot of farmers’ markets these days, the lineup of vendors has branched out to include meat and seafood, baked goods, coffee beans, and other products that aren’t strictly “farm” items, but sic transit gloria mundi as they say. This Atlantic Monthly post talks about a recent study, sponsored by the Northeast Organic Farming Association of Vermont, that dispels the notion that it’s more expensive to buy food from farmers’ markets than supermarkets. The researcher found that organic produce in particular was significantly less expensive at farmers’ markets (but, then, note who paid for the research…). I’ll try to remember to post a follow-up to this item once the market gets going and I’ve had a chance to suss it out.

This Slate article by British food writer Fuchsia Dunlop (only in England are children actually named “Fuchsia”) looks at the aversion to cheese in China. Chinese cuisine is largely devoid of dairy products, so the consumption of cheese is a recent affectation borrowed from the West and among the general population cheese is actually reviled. But, as Dunlop writes, it’s not because the Chinese don’t appreciate pungent-smelling food, as she details the extremely popular dish chou doufou (fermented tofu).

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The Occasional Food Post

It’s not for nothing that political candidates call the endless parade of banquets and luncheons the “Rubber Chicken Circuit”. This article at The Economist’s “Intelligent Life” magazine looks at the disconnect between what people want from banquet food and what a hotel or restaurant can realistically manage to do for a large group and how some chefs are trying to up their game by getting away from rubber chicken a la king and trying cooking methods and cuisines that are better suited to the vagaries of serving several hundred people simultaneously.

Speaking of chicken…it should not be a surprise to anyone that Americans have an overwhelming preference for “white” meat (in other words, chicken breast), spurred partially by the machinations of the poultry producers and partially by our infantilized palates. But until they perfect the process for growing meat without growing the chicken, every bird has two legs as well as a breast. That’s a lot of meat left over, too much to even consider just throwing away, and so the poultry producers export all those chicken legs to other countries where people LOVE them. This Slate article says that the biggest importer of American chicken legs for years has been Russia, but the Russians are trying to boost their domestic poultry production and so are buying less and less from us. Given the state of the economy and the ecological disasters waiting for us on the horizon, Americans need to wise up, stop being fussy, and start eating dark meat. It tastes better anyway.

The USDA has an online interactive “Food Environment Atlas” that you can use to explore county-by-county census data as it relates to a variety of food and health concerns. A website called “Daily Yonder” used the atlas to generate this map of the U.S. showing the number of fast-food restaurants per capita and then some additional infographics for several related vectors: obesity, exercise, amounts of types of food eaten (soft drinks, vegetables, meat), and amount of per-person spending on fast food. There’s no sort of master index that pulls all of this together in that post, but taken as a group the maps do point out trends.

We occasionally enjoy watching the Travel Channel’s “Bizarre Foods” with Andrew Zimmern. I have to say that probably a good 75% of the stuff he eats actually looks just fine to me; not to harp on a point too much, but Americans as a group are appallingly infantile about their food preferences, and a lot of the things he samples are not so much gross as they are merely culturally unappealing because they’re unfamiliar. Once in a while you can tell that even Zimmern has to man up to eat a few things that clearly don’t taste good, but he never shirks from something just because it’s weird. Well, almost never. I think I’d pass on that, too.

In The Atlantic, local chef Chris Parsons writes about the 2011 Bocuse d’Or competition that was recently held in Lyon, France. You may recall that I blogged about his Bocuse d’Or posts last year, too. Parsons himself was a competitor in 2009.

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Chicken

Well THIS makes me feel a whole lot better: the USDA has changed it’s standard for what percentage of chicken carcasses in a processing plant can test positive for salmonella. The new standard sets the limit at 7.5%. The previous limit, set in 1996, was…drumroll please…20%. Is it possible to be retroactively nauseated, because I think I am.

We’ve all got our hate on for the KFC Double-Down sandwich, right? I mean, could anything BE more disgusting and such a symbol of our gluttony? Well, this The Smart Set post by Greg Beato would kindly like you to remember that the Double Down doesn’t even qualify as an amuse bouche compared with the 12-egg omelets, truck-tire-diameter pancakes, and side-’o-beef burgers that Adam Richman finds in restaurants all over the country on Travel Channel’s “Man vs. Food” or the cheese-laden, deep-fried, gut-busting “off the hook” dishes Guy Fieri lauds on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives”.

And let’s not forget the health care reform idea touted by Nevada Republican Senatorial candidate Sue Lowden: paying your medical bills by bartering live chickens to your doctor in return for treatment. Who says Republicans aren’t just FULL of…ideas.

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